I hate plumbing, I don't mind electric, but I hate plumbing.

I'm getting ready to replace the sink faucets in the house, the bathrooms and the kitchen sink. I picked up one fixture over the weekend at Lowes and I'm going to experiment on the half-bath sink.

I'm pretty handy so I think I can successfully tackle this project.

The directions call for seating the tail-piece in silicone. Are they talking about silicone caulk? Last time I did something like this I used plumber's putty.

If I use silicone caulk, which is an adhesive, won't that make it impossible to take out if at some point in time I decide to replace it?

Any other tips will be greatly appreciated.

I'm no plumber, but I use RTV type silicone sealing electronics. It's not that hard to remove something that's been coated with it. I wouldn't have any qualms about using it on a sink that I may want to replace in the future.

Have you checked the manufacter's website if they have one? See if they have a FAQ section and check there. If you want, I can ask hubby who is pretty knowlegeable in the building trade.

Thanks Bent, I'll have to check that stuff out.

WVD, I'd appreciate it if you'd check with your Hubby. The directions that came with the faucet just say to seat it in "silicone". Checking the website is a good idea, I'll do that too.

The only silicone I've ever used is that spray lube stuff, and the silicone that you use for sealing window and door jamb joints.

i'm not much good in this thread... but i CAN tell you the silicone wont come off of anything you get it on... at least not easily... my husband has several "work" hoodies to prove it!

i'm not much good in this thread... but i CAN tell you the silicone wont come off of anything you get it on... at least not easily... my husband has several "work" hoodies to prove it!

ok. I'll ask him this evening and post his answer later.

My personal preference is to use plumbers putty. Plumbers putty isn't as messy and wont corrode metals.

Edit to add:
Well you learn something new everyday:

The acrylics used in todays plumbing fixtures are a whole new ball game. Petroleum based sealers, like plumbers putty, react with the plastics, and will at best discolor the drain or fixture and at worst cause the drain to break or distort. When only a silicone or latex sealer is called for, it should be used.

Thanks Wrangler, that explains why plumbers putty isn't used much anymore. I had no idea.

And where did that come from? Some college boy?
Hubby ( who's actually WORKED in the building field since he was 18, he's 52 now), says to use the plumber's putty.
But, you do what ya want.
Good Luck!

Hey, thanks alot WVD!!! I appreciate it.

And thank your Hubby for me too!

X2 what Wrangler said, and I'll add that things are made with closer tolerances now days so you don't need a big filler like the putty.

Any clear 100% silicone will do.

Another thing that will make things a lot easier is to skip the compression fitting supply lines and get the braided ones, they cost a little more but, man do they make the job a lot easier.

Thanks Udmas, I appreciate the tip.

Yeah, I tried to reuse the compression fittings once before in another project.... I still don't like to talk about it. lol

So how'd that go??

You know that poem "The Rime of the Ancient Mariner" by Samuel Taylor Coleridge? Water, water, every where....

Here's some directions for you Yoss, from the Lowe's web site. I did all my own plumbing work in my house. From replacing the pipes to replacing the faucet, so if I can do it you can too.

Top-Mounted Faucet
Step 1: Apply a bead of plumber's putty or silicon caulk around the faucet base. Some faucets have rubber or plastic gaskets for the base and ^do not require this step^.

Step 2: Ease the faucet into place, pressing against the putty to assure a good seal.

Step 3: Under the sink, install the washers and mounting nuts on the tailpieces. Tighten the nuts by hand.

Step 4: Align the faucet with the back of the sink and tighten the mounting nuts with waterpump pliers, adjustable wrench or a basin wrench. Wipe away excess putty or caulk from around the base.

For more infor click here: http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=howT...epFaucet.html#5

Thanks Libs!

Your welcome, Let us know how it all works out.

Done. Three hours, and that includes a half hour trip to the new Lowes at Longmeadow to get another set of braided supply lines. The ones I originally got were 1/2 inch to 1/2 inch. Come to find out, I needed 1/2 inch (to faucet) to 3/8 inch (to water supply).

No busted knuckles, no cuts or scrapes.

Looks darn good too. I'll have to post a pic on here when I get my new camera.

cant wait to see the flood on the front page of the Hm tomorrow. <3

good job, mr. fix it.

Hey Yoss just a quick note. You want to make sure you get 3/8 to 1/2 lines so you don't have to run back to Lowe's.

Yeah.. thanks Wrangler....

See there and you thought all you could do was be a MOD in the MH forum. Congrats Yoss for passing the home plumbing test.

Well... I'm not so good. Found a leak, not in the supply, but in the drain. A little plumbers thread dope seems to have fixed it.

The main thing is that you had fun, it was fun wasn't it.

Yeah.... really....

Just playing with my new camera.

Here's the faucet.

looks good

That is a good looking faucet, Yoss. Good job.

If Congress actually decides in their benevolence to give us some of our money back with the economy stimulus rebate, I'm going to redo one of my bathrooms (tile floor, sink/vanity, trim, new mirror/lighting/shower door).

What we really want to see is the underneath.

yeah... i figured you'd ask about that....

it's just typical underneath sink stuff.... stripped nuts, pipe thread dope dripping like luray caverns... the usual stuff...



thanks wvd and sman....