Leeks

Dusseldorf is an often-overlooked mustard that has multiple culinary uses beyond garnishing a hot dog. Pictured is leeks with Dusseldorf mustard. (MCT photo / September 26, 2012)

 Walk the mustard aisle of any store, and "D" will stand for Dijon, a testament, perhaps, to the popularity of all those Grey Poupon commercials. But "D" also means Dusseldorf, an oft-overlooked style that has multiple culinary uses beyond garnishing a hot dog.

 "Dusseldorf has much better flavor than Dijon," said chef Walter Staib of Philadelphia’s City Tavern restaurant. "But it doesn’t have the sex appeal of Dijon or the pedigree."

Like Dijon in France, Dusseldorf is an actual place, a city on the Rhine River in western Germany. Dusseldorf’s mustard "consists exclusively of ground brown and yellow mustard seeds, unfiltered spirit vinegar produced in Dusseldorf, the special lime and mineral rich water of Dusseldorf, salt, sugar and spices." It has "a bright creamy consistency and a malt brown color" and contains "tiny pieces of husks (specks)." And the flavor? "Hot, malty, spicy," which the application credits to the triple grinding of the mustard husks.


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Leeks with a dusseldorf vinaigrette

 Prep: 10 minutes

 Cook: 10 minutes

 Servings: 4

 

Ingredients:

 12 small to medium leeks, cleaned, trimmed (about 2 pounds)

 2 tablespoons white wine vinegar, or mixture of half sherry vinegar and half white wine vinegar

 1 tablespoon Dusseldorf mustard

 5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

 1/2 teaspoon salt

 Freshly ground pepper

 2 tablespoons chopped fresh chives

 1 tablespoon chopped fresh tarragon or dill

 1 package (8 ounces) cooked beets, diced

 

 1. Cut leeks into 3 to 4 pieces. Cook them in a steamer over simmering water until just tender, 7-10 minutes.