I had a question concerning the growth of Red maples. How can I tell if the tree is in shock or is stunted? About six years ago, I planted two Red maples in the front yard. One tree is almost five times the size of the other. I am wondering what could be wrong. Both get adequate water, and we have not experienced a drought. I'm wondering if I didn't remove enough of the root sack or is it is bad soil. (email reference)
A If I'm seeing the photos correctly, one tree appears to be planted too deeply and has some physical damage at the base from a mower or weed whip. Other than that, there is no evidence that I can see that would cause this much of a difference between the two trees.
Q I saw your column about poplar trees, so maybe you can answer my question. It always has been a messy tree, but I don't want to lose it. During the last few years, it has started losing more and more branches, especially in the fall. The branches that fall off have green buds at the end and appear to break off at the node. The foliage on the tree also seems to get thinner each year. What can I do to save the tree? (email reference)
A Unfortunately, this is the nature of the beast! It will continue to drop twigs and will get around to dropping larger branches as it continues to get up in years. The best I can advise if you want to keep the tree is to hire a professional International Society of Arboretum certified arborist to trim the tree on an annual basis.
Q What combination of conditions causes winter squash to ripen? It is day length, watering or temperature? How can a short-season gardener manipulate environmental conditions to cause winter squash to ripen? Does powdery mildew interfere with ripening? (email reference)
A All of the above. Generally, the use of frost blankets will extend the growing season for several weeks in the fall. In the spring, plant the squash in soil that has been prewarmed using solarization. Keep an eye on shifting temperatures to protect against late spring frosts also will help to ripen on time. Higher temperature trumps all else. Bright, hot, sunny days, with adequate moisture, will accelerate ripening and get your crop harvestable before cold weather closes in.
http://www.ag.ndsu.edu
/pubs/plantsci/
hortcrop/h1547.pdf.
Going from a North American climate to one in South America turns everything on its head. What grows well here is genetically predisposed to the timing of our climate conditions, day length, cold periods and more. With its various climate conditions, I would think that Ecuador could support different apple varieties. I would suggest checking with the Ministry of Agriculture to see if it has something you could use.
Keep in mind what you may not like in apples from that region could be relished by the locals. Tastes differ based on what is available and what people are used to. Any climate that would support apples also would support cherries.
You might want to contact the University of Minnesota Extension Service and others that I have listed under "Other Resources" at the end of my publication. All are better versed in apple production for commercial and private purposes than I am.
Q I was wondering if you might be able to help me. I was moving from a house I had lived in for 10 years and decided to move some of my favorite roses. I was successful with six plants. Out of the six, I have one that seems to be growing at twice the rate of the others. However, it does not have any buds. All the others have given me flowers. Am I doing something wrong? (email reference)
A You are experiencing sucker growth from the rootstock, which has very limited flowering capability. It is used as the stock to be grafted onto by roses that are known for their beautiful flowers. The rootstock often takes over when the budwood (scion) is killed, damaged or weakened to the point where it cannot suppress the vigor of the root system. The result is the rampant growth you are witnessing.
Q I have four hanging spider plants outdoors here in Pennsylvania that I need to bring in for the winter. It has been not been a problem in the past. This year, they grew so well that the plants have many spiders. Do I cut off the spiders for the winter? They will be near one window that is made out of glass blocks. I do not want to lose them, but they would be a real problem if I don't cut them back. (email reference)
A You certainly can cut them back, but I wouldn't throw them away. They can be rooted using an African violet mix, damp sand or moist sphagnum peat moss. These are some of the most rugged and long-lived houseplants available. It takes a concentrated effort to kill them. I encourage you to divide the plants as well. Divide them at least in half or, if they a large enough, into quarters. Place them in pots to give away to family or friends.
Q This spring, I bought a yellow begonia that did well this summer. Before the killing frost, I brought it inside, but I'm not sure what to do with it. The blossoms are much smaller and single as opposed to the double blossoms it produced this summer. Should I fertilize it and put it under grow lights for winter flowers or should I quit watering it to let it go dormant? (email reference)
A Either action will work, so the choice is yours. Keeping it under lights, watering it and lightly fertilizing is, I think, more interesting than drying it down and getting everything started again next spring. There is always the chance of "out of sight, out of mind" setting in. Dehydration or disease also could do it in, depending on your storage conditions.
